Cycling Around Cambridge
Cambridge is a city of bicycles, chained to stands, railings, lamp posts and in the middle of traffic islands. Cars are rare, busses trundle and bicycles weave around everywhere. They are a brilliant way to get around in this flat Fenland city. The university dons insisted that railway station be built 1 ½ miles from the city centre, banning undergrads travelling by new-fangled train. You can catch bus to the centre but a bike gives you more freedom. Most trains allow you to bring your own bike or you can use the hire company at the station.
This route is an opportunity to explore some of Cambridge’s less well-known attractions. At the other end of Station Road a short dog-leg, right and left, takes you into Bateman Street, for the Botanic Gardens. Be prepared to spend at least a couple of hours wandering around gardens and glass houses. Do not miss seeing the scion of the apple tree that dropped one its fruits on Isaac Newton’s head, bringing gravity to his attention.
Further on is Brookside, nothing to do with the soap opera, but named for the brook flowing beside the road. This is Hobson’s Conduit, built 1610-1614 to bring fresh water into the city. Thomas Hobson was the owner of a livery stable in the town who insisted that his customers always took his most rested mount. It became known as ‘Hobson’s choice’. Following the conduit towards the town brings you to his Monument.
From here, you can cycle on, along Trumpington Street where the Fitzwilliam Museum has its classical Greek portico and stone lions. They guard ‘one of the greatest art collections of the nation and a monument of the first importance’. There are always amazing guest exhibitions, currently it is ‘Origins of the Afro Comb’, which reflects personal grooming over 6000 years. Further on is Fitzbillies, a bakery and restaurant, whose claim to fame is their Chelsea Bun. This sticky delight can be ordered by mail and are dispatched world-wide. Trumpington Street becomes King’s Parade, with its glorious facade of King’s College and so towards the city centre.
Another choice from Hobson’s Monument is to turn left on to Fen Causeway and head for the River Cam. Look for a bike path passing under the river bridge, a pretty pedal leads you to the mill pond, where Scudamore’s hire punts and canoes. Cross Silver Street and you can cycle along the ‘Backs’ but, before you do, take a look downstream. Punts drift under the Mathematical Bridge, a wooden lattice, dating from 1749. Alas, it is a myth that Isaac Newton was involved in its design, he died 22 years beforehand. ‘The Backs’ are the backs of the colleges. So much for intellectual heights of imagination. However, there is wonderful view of King’s Chapel and, if you time it right, catch the Choristers, in top hats and tails, on their way to evensong.
Crossing the river via Garret Hostel Lane, with a few wiggles, brings you to Market Hill where Great St Mary’s Church opens its tower daily, weather permitting. There is no other view quite like it. Also, look for the plaque on the church wall which marks the datum point of a milestone erected 1725. The first one in the UK since Roman times.
The market is open daily, with stalls selling everything from fresh exotic fruit to second hand records. Nearby is Petty Cury, this street was first mentioned in 1330, the name is probably from the French, petite meaning little and cury meaning cook: Little Cook’s Row. Now it is a modern shopping street with Lion’s Yard Mall off one side. At the end of Petty Cury turning right, on to St Andrew’s Street, sets your wheels in the direction of the railway station.
Look for the tall spire of the Catholic Church. Built 1885-1890, at the expense of Yolande.
Marie Louise Lyne-Stephens, a famous ballet dancer and wealthy banker’s widow. Fulfilling a vow, she dedicated the church to Our Lady and the English Martyrs. Next door is the Scott Polar Research Institute, where Arctic and Arctic expeditions are planned. It houses a museum with artefacts gathered by polar explorers. If you are there in the afternoon, you may hear a ship’s bell ring, summoning staff to the afternoon tea break.
Cycling past the church, keeping on Hills Road, returns you to Station Road and closes the route. This tour will easily last all day and only takes you around a fraction of the attractions. There are museums, colleges, theatres, the River Cam and parks aplenty. Festivals and fairs are sprinkled through the year and no matter when you visit there is always something new on offer.
Websites:
Cambridge cycle paths map:
http://www.cambridgeshire.gov.uk/transport/around/cycling/cycleroutesandparking/default/
Tourist Information:
http://www.visitcambridge.org/visitor-information/tourist-information-centre
Station Cycle Hire
http://www.stationcycles.co.uk/
zehzeh
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- Cycling Around Cambridge - August 5, 2013
