Palacio da Pena

A spectacular palace that was a home for royals; in Portugal, close to Lisbon home of the greatest ever custard tart and antique trams of all time.

Palacio da Pena is a joyful maze of happy surprises. The windy climb from the bus terminus through the woodland gardens to the enchantment of a palace that seems unreal in its fairy-tale features. Bright Yellow oval shaped turret, rust red cloisters, a clock tower that would be at home in Bavaria with its small cylindrical cones topping the castellated roof; blue grey ball roomed three storey arch fronted building attached to yet another larger Arch which leads on to more wonderful yellow oriental styled buildings.

All on different levels and hugging the hilltop presenting views as far as the Atlantic or way across the ravines of wooded gardens. You would think it was a mismatched muddle from description, but somehow it just isn’t.

The enchanting variation of styles and colours is cleverly different and seems perfect as a magical home with infinite fascination and interest. For example the Chapel is small, intimate and low ceilinged; a place to chat to God rather than to praise his aloof presence in the echoing marvel of a huge Cathedral. Each bedroom is similar in size to the average modern day sitting room with a surprisingly low ceiling; and the writing rooms are equally cosy with small simple desks.

Ferdinand King Consort (cousin of Prince Albert) valued family life and was determined to make the palace more a summer lodge than a grand show piece Palace for visitors. He certainly succeeded in the former whilst creating a spectacular set of buildings, joined together in a joyful unity of separates. This seeming impossibility gives Penna an added charm and a testament to man’s ingenuity and sense of fun.

For it is fun. Not a shred formal. Even the larger ballroom is intimate and hardly big enough for large numbers of guests.

One walk at least has to be done. To the highest peak about a quarter mile away through the leafy gardens, and the coach passing sized paths. Clamber up through the rocks and find a place to soak in the sun, admire the views, and think poetical thoughts as your eyes settle on the friendly palace; its yellow oval turret seems to beckon you back to its homliness. And you will go if only for the coffee and famous Lisbon custard tarts.